Showing posts with label PowerTap. Show all posts
Showing posts with label PowerTap. Show all posts

Monday, January 16, 2017

SRAM etap wifli

2009 LOOK 585 Ultra - Upgrades


10spd > 11spd
SRAM Red shifters > SRAM etap shifters
SRAM Red Front Derailleur > SRAM etap Front Derailleur
SRAM Red Rear Derailleur > SRAM etap Rear Derailleur
SRAM Red 50/34 Rings > Praxis 52/36 Rings
Shimano Ultegra 11-28 Cassette > SRAM Force 11-32 Cassette
White Bar Tape > Black Bar Tape
Fizik Arione White Saddle > Fizik Arione Black Saddle
PowerTap G3 10spd Freehub Body > PowerTap G3 11spd Freehub Body
SRAM GXP Bottom Bracket > Hawk Racing GXP Bottom Bracket
LOOK Keo Class Pedals (white) > LOOK Keo Blade Max (black)
KMC 10 speed > Connex (treated) 11 speed

I have paired and installed the shifters and rear derailleur, but I had to order a 31.8 braze-on clamp adapter for the front derailleur. The chain rings, bottom bracket, saddle, pedals and brake cables are on, as well as, the free-hub and cassette are on. So far all of this has been fairly simple. I had ordered a KMC chain for this install, but after reading a thread on Slowtitch about using a waxed chain and how the drivetrain will stay cleaner in comparison to standard lubrication, I decided to order a treated Connex chain from Premier Bike.


Gear Ratios


New 52/36 with 11-32 Cassette at the extremes
36 : 11 = 3.3
52 : 11 = 4.7
36 : 32 = 1.1
52 : 32 = 1.6

Old 50/34 with 11-28 Cassette at the extremes
34 : 11 = 3.1
50 : 11 = 4.6
34 : 28 = 1.2
50 : 28 = 1.8

A decent website and video instruction for installation HERE
Here is the video for the wifli rear derailleur setup HERE

Careful!!!!

I had everything setup and was fine tuning the chain rub on the front derailleur when I evidently went too far on the high limit screw. I thought all was set and ready so I stepped away to do something else. When I returned I took a last look and noticed there was no high limit screw showing on the front derailleur. Immediately I removed the component and noticed that it went through the back side and was pinched between the body and the spring. A very costly mistake on my part.

Since the group was purchased through an online retailer and SRAM does not allow customers to directly contact them I went to my local bike shop. It is at that moment you feel like a jackass when you bring something in that was purchased elsewhere, but the service manager was extremely nice about it. In fact he started off simply by saying that he would contact SRAM for me and see where it would go or if they could repair the component. 

The result from the conversation and pictures sent to SRAM was that the threads had been damaged and that was true. I had noticed that they looked stripped. Since it was user error on my part the component was not covered by the product warranty, but something was worked out that I did get a slight discount through the crash warranty. When the replacement arrives at the bike shop I am taking the bike in and have them finish out the setup and fine tuning of the group. The damaged component will be returned to SRAM through the dealership.

Hind sight I wished I had bought the group from the local shop since the SRAM pricing is the same from all retailers. I bought this one online since it was the first wifli group I saw posted on the internet, but I should have waited and purchased locally and actually just paid the shop to install and setup. I should have known as my typical skills are more like chopping wood compared to the finesse of a watch repair. 

In the picture below you can see the high limit screw lodged in the component.




Thankful!!!!

Thanks to the guys at Free-Flite Bicycles (Canton Road Location) for helping me out with replacing the front derailleur and then installing and fine tuning the group. Putting it to words in hopes of sharing my appreciation for these guys going above and beyond what I expected falls well short of what I would like to express. Thanks Guys!!!

Friday, March 11, 2016

PowerTap - Zero the Offset


PowerTap Announcement:

Of the three power meters that I own the G3 hub has served me well in all seasons of weather and has been stable. I've been in good habit since starting to train with a power meters in 2008 to zero the offset (some call it calibration) before starting to train or ride. The value on the G3 for me is generally about 496 and the hub has been tested to within 2% using a static weight test so I feel pretty good about the hub. I think most want to see a number around 502, but it doesn't have to be right on that number or the user doesn't need to fret that it is slightly off from 502. My understanding that it can be within a range near that value and still be trusted for use. 

You can go to the link provided above to get the straight story of what PowerTap is doing across the board with their latest power meters.. In short the value for "zero" will now be zero (0). If the offset value falls out of range it will report to the user on the display 'Failed', which means that the power meter is in need of service.

Please Note: This firmware update is for G3 / GS, C1 and P1 power meters.

I have an ANT+ G3 hub and will apply the firmware version 16.063 this evening using the following directions from PowerTap using the PowerAgent application.

Instructional Video Link
  • Spin the wheel/axle a couple times with the Powercap still on to "wake up" the Powercap
  • Take Powercap off by removing the triangular nut and pulling Powercap straight off (do NOT twist)
  • Remove the CR2032 battery from the Powercap 
  • Plug the Powercap without the battery into your computer using a micro USB cable
  • Open PowerAgent
  • Navigate to Tools > Firmware > Check for Firmware Update
  • Click OK to begin the firmware update
  • Firmware will install. With some new versions of firmware, Window OS will need to “re-find” the attached PowerCap. Let it run to completion. 
  • When PowerAgent says the update was successful, click OK and unplug Powercap 
  • Wait 10 seconds, plug battery back into the Powercap
  • Install PowerCap back on PowerTap hub 

Follow Up:

I know some users are always apprehensive about being the first to apply a firmware update and want to get some feedback from those bold enough to take the first step and make sure it doesn't foul up something that is already working well. I hope to make the update this evening and will report back. 

Previous Firmware Offset

New Firmware Offset After Install

The offset value right after the firmware update is -12 and must fall within the acceptable range. I will see if it changes after a few rides and report back. Just as a note I changed the battery while I had the hub cap off. 

From PowerTap's FB page on the range limits: A unit will automatically notify a rider if the unit is outside of the offset limit. This limit is +/- 30 Nm for ANT+ and +/- 3.0 Nm for BLE.

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Kickr - Control By Power Meter

EDIT: I've removed previous tips on setting up control through the Wahoo applications and firmware updates since those do not seem to work for everyone. You can find more information and discussion on this topic at SLOWTWITCH

Update 3/26/2015

PerfPRO announced last week that they now have power meter control over the Kickr built into their latest public beta download. You can find the beta download at this link
https://perfprostudio.com/Download.aspx

It seems like the only viable option at this time is in PerfPro.
If you want power meter control right now for Kickr ERG my thought is Get PerfPro.

Update 4/1/2015

TrainerRoad has the option available now and can be downloaded to a PC or Mac. I will give it a try this evening. A couple have stated that it works well.

PC
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sg6yp9xnq8nwmgc/TrainerRoad.2.6.998.exe?dl=0

Mac
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fk4qsljghyr1oul/TrainerRoad.2.6.33.dmg?dl=0

The image below is a 20 minute interval segment comparing the Quarq data recorded on a Garmin Edge (yellow) and the data recorded in TrainerRoad (red) with the Quarq controlling the Kickr in ERG mode. All metrics totals for the workout session were the same at the end.


What is the solution for those who have either a hub based power meter or no power meter? I am not really sure and I have not heard or seen any discussion from Wahoo on how to improve the Kickr.

The Kickr is a pretty good trainer for wireless connection and for workout control from a program like TrainerRoad, PerfPro or others. It has a great feel and is of a good build quality structurally speaking. I am not an official reviewer that has thoroughly tested the data other than my own training data, which was about 15+ watts too high compared to two Quarqs and my Powertap G3 is within 4 watts of the Quarqs. I am confident when comparing my data that the Kickr's wattage was not correct and in my opinion not in an acceptable percentage range to those power meters. There have been a multitude of Kickr users that had the same experience with various brands of power meters being about 20 watts different. In a few rare cases some Kickrs have been below, but most have reported too high. There have been a few report that the Kickr was right on the money with the power meter from the start. So it seems to be a bit all over the place and I would feel it would be bad on my part to make good comments about a trainer and leave out something that a potential buyer regret later.

Thanks to PerfPro and TrainerRoad for stepping up to provide a means for those using power meters (non hub based meters) to control the Kickr and record the power meter data for historical training records.

Update 4/8/15

Wahoo announces on Slowtwitch a new beta firmware release.
Here is the post. http://forum.slowtwitch.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?post=5500153#5500153
A public firmware will be released soon.

Update 2/5/16

Here are a few screen shots from an active recovery session last night using the combination of the Kickr (latest Wahoo firmware update v1.4.39), Quarq ELSA, PerfPro (latest edition using the power meter control option). I've had about a 15 watt difference between my power meters and the Kickr for the total training session since purchase and it is still about the same, but it does seem that the application and firmware updates have improved the overall feel of the Kickr. It seems be a little less erratic in power meter control than previously. 





The above image reflects the difference between the Kickr (purple) and the Quarq (blue) although it just happened that the point I did the screen shot shows a very close match. It is better to look at the overall power average in the Power Statistics.

Monday, May 19, 2014

Powertap G3 - Oddities and Updates

This past Saturday I went through my pre-ride ritual of preparation and one of the last steps is to "zero" (Garmin calls it "Calibration") the torque offset value. Typically this value falls in a certain range like 500 to 520. Mine typically shows a value between 496 to 500. I feel good with that range since I have completed a static weight test and found the hub to be within 2% accuracy.

The image below showing a value of -22281 was what I saw in the field just before the ride so I turned the power meter off in the Garmin 800 and did the ride old school with just the basic metrics derived from the GPS.

When I got home I first uploaded my data and created a blog entry. The wheel had been sitting dormant in the garage for about 45 minutes. I turned both the 500 and the 800 on before walking down to the garage and before I opened the door both units detected the hub. This is not supposed to happen! The hub is supposed to go to sleep after a few minutes of non use and to be honest it does most of the time. I cannot remember a time in the past since updating with Firmware 16.000 that the hub was detected without spinning the wheel to wake up the hub. Nonetheless this time it was still awake. 




















A few moments later the Garmin 500 gave a low battery warning.



 



 
 
Trying to keep calm about it all, I checked the PowerAgent application and it gave me a clue that a new firmware update 16.056 was available. It was a simple process to follow the steps in the application and install a new battery as well.


 




















Next step is to wake up the hub and see if the offset value looks back to normal
























I finished with several tests to see if the hub would go to sleep, wake it up and repeat. The G3 hub looks to be in good working order again. It performed well in today's ride and hopefully there will be a touch more battery life as a bonus.

I do like having the ability to do these firmware updates at home without the stress of boxing up the rear wheel like the older PowerTap hubs and send it off for repair or a rebuild. What I have learned from this experience was to check more often for the firmware updates.

From PowerTap
http://www.powertap.com/pages/firmware-release-history

G3 Powercap

Current Firmware 16.058, released March 26, 2014
Release Notes: 
  • Added a reset after sleep to cure zero power issue. 
  • Changed low battery warning values.